Louhans has the biggest market day hereabouts, every Monday. Nearly every shop in the surrounding towns closes Monday, presumably so everyone can do their weekly shopping in Louhans.

On our host’s advice, we rose early and arrived at the market by 8, and watched a lively trade in everything from llamas to (live) chickens to vegetables to clothing and furniture. Our haul included bread, cheese, fruit, date-palm hand lotion and a toy wooden train for granddaughter Grace. I walked a bit over a mile, albeit slowly amidst the throng…

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